Contrary to what the title suggests, this has nothing to do with jiggly
camera work or spooky witches. The Swords Against Sorcery project is an
attempt to create a simple set of miniatures rules that you can play when
you don’t have enough time for a full blown game of Warhammer or
Chronopia. It is also meant as an alternative for those of use who do
not buy miniatures produced by either of the two big players in the fantasy
miniatures market. I don’t like dwarves with heads bigger than their chests,
nor do I like swords bulky enough to pass for vaguely sharp iron clubs.
More importantly, though, I’d like this to become OUR baby. I’d love to get
feedback, ideas, criticism, whatever from the on line miniatures community.
I want people to take these rules and bend, fold, and mutilate them to their
hearts’ content. The system presented here is completely freeware. Contact
me at mearls@gamingoutpost.com
if you have any cool ideas or conversions for this system. This is a
prototype version of the rules, so there’s plenty of bugs to exterminate
here folks!
So have at it! If your idea of miniatures gaming is all about tooling around
with toy soldiers rather than wading through archaic rules and wrangling
over the newest and coolest army list, you’ve come to the right place.
Swords Against SorceryWhy Another Miniatures Game?
I think this is an important question for any designer who is sitting
down to work out a new game. There are plenty of games out there already,
many supported by miniature lines and a steady stream of supplements.
Unfortunately, none of them meet my needs. I like to collect miniatures
scattershot, based more on how much I like the figure than on how well the
figure fits into a predesigned army list. I also like games that play fast.
I don’t want to spend eight hours playing out a single battle.
So, let’s look at what I want out of these rules:
- Small numbers of figures per side. This is faster to set up and requires
a far smaller cash investment.
- Movement based on squares, like a chessboard. This helps cut down on set
up time and simplifies the rules.
- Non-standard units. With such a varied collection, I can’t build units
of models that look the same.
- Fast playing. I want a miniatures game that takes less than an hour from
set-up to finish.
Ideally, you could get a quick game in while waiting for the rest of
your gaming group to show up. Just grab some of the figures from the
communal pile of monsters and have at it!
A Note
Part of this project grew out of the Plain English Roleplaying (PERP)
system I’m working on. The die mechanics there are very simple, but I’ve
been toying with a system I call the Binary Engine for some time. The
initial seed for this idea came from Greg Stolze, who mentioned a few ideas
he had for systems on the Unknown Armies RPG mailing list. The seed planted
by Greg has grown into a complete system that I’ve been tinkering with for
quite some time.
Prototype Rules
I. Movement and Initiative
Who Goes First
One player flips a coin, the other calls it in the air. The winner gets
to decide who goes first.
Activation
The player who went first chooses one figure, moves it, and makes an
attack (if applicable). Once that player is done, the other player selects
one of his figures, moves it, attacks with it, and so on. If one side is
vastly outnumbered, the side with more figures should activate more than one
at a time in order to ensure that whoever went second is the last one to
move any figures. In general, try to divide up activation so that the side
with more figures is moving roughly the same number per activation.
Movement
One movement point lets a model move one square in any direction.
There’s no movement point cost for turning, and in this version of the rules
there’s no rules for facing. Let’s just assume that our fighters are smart
enough to check six once in while and leave it at that. (For now, at least.
When I add rules for assassins and thieves this will change.)
Model Size |
Movement Points |
| Small (Dwarf, gnome, kobold) |
1 |
| Medium (Human, orc, elf) |
2 |
| Big (Ogre, troll, golem) |
3 |
| Bigger Than Big (Giant, dinosaur) |
4 |
| Pretty Dang Big (Titan, dragon) |
5 |
II. Combat
The core difference between Swords Against Sorcery and other
miniatures games is how the dice are used. Most games require you to roll a
die and beat a target number. Swords Against Sorcery steals some
ideas from poker while seeking to cut down on all the stats needed to
describe a figure. I’ve also ladled in a generous dose of the Shadowfist
card game. It’s also important to note that the die mechanics described here
are the proto-mechanics for Plain English Roleplaying’s next edition. But
before we can roll the dice, let’s look at the stats we’ll use to represent
a figure. Strike that. Let’s look at the stat that we’ll use to represent a
figure: training. (I told you this game was going to be simple.) Training
covers how well a figure fights.
Training Level |
| 1: Untrained rabble |
| 2: Average soldier |
| 3: Veteran |
| 4: Elite soldier |
| 8: Hero |
Attacking
A model may attack any model in an adjacent square, including models in
adjacent diagonal squares.
Rolling the Dice
You’ll need three different types of dice in Swords Against
Sorcery: six, eight, and ten sided. Six siders represent an attack.
Eight siders represent the model’s parrying and dodging. Ten siders
represent the model’s speed. When you roll a die, an even number is a
success. An odd number counts for nothing.
Your Hand
When it comes time to attack another figure, you’ll have to choose
which dice you want to use: attack, defense, or speed, and in which
proportion. Will you use all of your dice in an attack and go for the quick
kill? Will you turtle up and wait for help to arrive? Or maybe you’ll go for
speed and get in a quick strike to disrupt his attack? If you have a
training of 5, you could use 3 attack dice, 1 defense die, and 1 speed die.
Or, you could use 4 defense dice and 1 attack die. You can use any
combination of dice, as long as the total for all three types is equal to or
less than your training. Keeping your dice hidden from your opponent, choose
the type you want to use on this attack. Once both players have chosen, both
roll at the same time. I’d suggest rolling in separate boxes (the kind that
GW use to package their plastic figures work well) so your dice don’t get
mixed up. (If they do get mixed up, remember Mearls’ First Rule: The even
ones are mine.) Tally up the successes for each die type and resolve the
attacks. First, compare how many speed dice came up even. The figure that
has more speed successes strikes first. If it kills the opposing figure with
its attack, discard that figure’s hand. If the target survives, the target
player must discard a number of dice from his hand equal to the damage
sustained. Note that speed dice (they’re useless now since you lost the
speed contest anyway) and dice that came up odd (these are, surprisingly
enough, useless no matter what) may be discarded to meet this requirement.
If the speed dice come up tied, all damage is simultaneous. Yes, it is
possible for two figures to kill each other in the same round. If no one
uses speed dice or no one rolls any even numbers on the speed dice, it is a
tie. If one player uses speed dice but gets no successes while the other did
not use any speed dice, it is still a tie. In this case, both models have 0
speed dice successes.
Resolving Damage
Each defensive success removes one attack success. Once defense dice
have been accounted for, the attacking player hits if he has any attack dice
left. Count up the remaining attack dice, add in any factors for strength or
magic weapons, and deal that much damage to the target. Damage is subtracted
from the model’s training. When training hits zero, the model is eliminated.
Ganging Up
Combat isn’t always a one on one affair. If two or more miniatures
decide to gang up on a lone figure, the figures that gang up determine their
hand by adding up their training scores. So, if two figures with a training
of two each attack a single figure with a training of six, the two figures
make a combined attack with a training of four. When resolving damage in
this situation, the figure that is outnumbered gets to decide how to
allocate any damage it deals out. In the above example, if the lone figure
did two points of damage it could deal both points to one of its opponents
or one point to each of them.
Fleeing Combat
Sometimes, a model is so badly outclassed that running away is its best
option. In this case, the model may only use half of its training dice in
speed dice for that combat round. If it survives, it may make a normal move
out of combat. A model that has already moved may do this only if it has not
already used all of its movement points this turn.
That’s the basics for melee combat. Missile combat is a little
different. We’ll talk about that under the next section: traits.
III. Traits
Traits help differentiate model types. They are a set of rules that
give you a lot more options in creating figures without adding too much
complexity. Traits include things like bravery, strength, toughness, and
armor. Here are the most common trait types:
Toughness
Toughness lets a figure take some punishment without affecting its
ability to fight. Toughness is marked like this: Toughness (N) where N is
some number. When a figure with toughness gets hit, subtract any damage it
takes from its Toughness first. When Toughness hits zero, begin subtracting
damage from Training. Example: An ogre with Training (5) and Toughness (4)
gets hit on round one for 2 points. Its Training is still (5) and its
Toughness is now (2). If the ogre got hit for 4 more points in the next
round, its Toughness would drop to (0) and its training would fall to (3).
The toughness would absorb 2 points before dropping to zero. The remaining
two points would come out of the ogre’s training.
Armor
Armor is anything that prevents damage, like chainmail or a dragon’s
scales. Armor is rated with a number like toughness, and is marked like
this: Armor (N) where N is a number. Armor subtracts from the damage done by
each attack that hits a figure. Armor does not go down, unless a magic spell
or something nasty destroys it. Example: Sir Edwin is wearing chainmail,
which gives him Armor (1). He’s also a real tough dude, so he has toughness
(2). He gets hit by five orcs, each of whom does 1 point of damage. Since
Edwin’s Armor works on each attack separately, each orc does no damage (1 -
1 is 0, QED). Now, if the orcs all did 2 points of damage, we’d subtract 1
from each hit, leaving us with 5 points of damage to allocate. Edwin’s
toughness absorbs 2 of those points, leaving 3 to subtract from Edwin’s
Training. Edwin is learning the hard way that 5:1 odds aren’t very good even
for a hero, no matter what the legends he’s heard say.
Missile Weapon
This trait indicates that the model has a bow, sling, spear, or
something else that lacks the up close and personal touch of a sword or axe.
This trait’s rating indicates how many dice the model rolls to make a
missile attack. Missile attacks work only like attack dice. You roll the
dice, count up the successes, and deal that much damage to the target. The
target has the option of spending training dice for defense, but if it gets
attacked later on in the round dice spent to defend against missile attacks
can’t be used in melee. You also can’t make a missile attack and a melee
attack in the same round. If you fire your bow and then some slob charges
you, you don’t get to use ANY dice to counter the attack. Better hope you
wore that platemail.
Strength
If a model has a strength rating, it does extra damage when it hits in
melee. A strength (2) model would add 2 to any damage it does in melee. You
have to hit first, so you can only add in this extra damage after your
opponent has accounted for his defense dice. If you have no attack dice left
over, you didn’t connect with your attack and don’t get to add your strength
bonus.
Guts
A figure with guts is a terrible foe indeed. Stab him, hack him, shoot
him, as long as he can stand he’s coming at you with a vengeance. Figures
with guts ignore training penalties from damage. They still die when they’ve
taken enough damage to reduce their training to 0, but they always get to
roll their full training in combat no matter how much damage they’ve soaked
up. Think of berserkers and you have a very clear picture of what kind of
model would have guts.
Bravery
This will come into play when the morale rules are worked out. Other
morale-related traits include terrifying and inspiring.
Negative Traits
It is possible for especially pathetic creatures to have a trait below
zero. A halfling or a weakling mage might have a negative strength, for
example.
IV. Equipment
Armor
Armor gives models the (surprise!) Armor trait. Chainmail gives Armor
(1), platemail gives Armor (2). Leather impresses the wenches but not much
else.
Weapons
Most weapons, such as axes, swords, and maces, all have the same effect
in Swords Against Sorcery. A figure’s training rating assumes it has
a one handed weapon. A model armed with only a dagger or its bare hands does
-1 damage. A model armed with a two handed weapon does +1 damage. This bonus
(or penalty) acts just like the strength trait.
Shields
Shields give you an extra defense die in combat. So a model with a
shield and Training of three chooses three dice to roll, adds in an extra
defense die, and rolls its hand.
Missile Weapons
Missile weapons work just like melee weapons: they affect the amount of
damage an archer does. A light weapon such as a sling or a dart does -1
damage. Self bows, spears, and throwing axes do normal damage. Long bows and
crossbows do +1 damage.
V. Sample Scenario
The Greedy Dudes vs. the Vaguely Defined Menace
If you’re like me, you hate it when a scenario calls for a very
particular sort of miniature, usual one that no one within 100 miles of you
has ever seen, much less painted. This scenario is meant to be very open
ended and usable with only seven miniatures.
What You Need
- A chessboard (you can get one out of any $5 set at your local drug
store) - Four terrain markers (coins work well. Regular miniature gaming
terrain works, too, just make sure each piece isn’t larger than a square on
your chessboard. Since this scenario is set indoors, you’ll want to use
columns or furniture rather than trees!) - Five door markers (Anything that doesn’t look like a terrain marker
works well here too.) - Three miniatures for the Vaguely Defined Menace (orcs work well here)
- Five miniatures for the Greedy Dudes (adventurer types work well
here)
The Story So Far
In a fit of larcenous greed, the Greedy Dudes have broken into the
Local Ruler’s treasure vault and are stuffing their pockets with gold.
Unfortunately, the Dudes’ coin gathering activities have been interrupted by
the sudden appearance of the treasure room’s guards: the Vaguely Defined
Menace. The Dudes want to get out of the room with some treasure, while the
Menace wants to take down the dudes before they can scamper away.
The Forces
The Dudes (4)
Typical moneygrubbers, they could be adventurers, thieves, or desperate
televangelists.
Training: 3
Size: Medium
The Menace (3)
Big and mean, the Menace could be ogres, trolls, or the Oakland
Raiders’ starting linebackers.
Training: 4
Size: Large
Toughness: 1
Special Rule
On any turn, a Dude may opt to fill his pockets with money rather than
move or attack. A Dude cannot spend training dice on any turn spent
gathering money. Mark down each time a dude stuffs his pockets with cash.
Set Up
The Dudes and Menace each set up on the edge row of opposite sides of
the board. The Dudes figures are placed on the board, then the Menace. The
Menace player then places each door marker on a space on the two unoccupied
sides of the board. The Dudes player places the four terrain markers after
the Menace has placed the doors. The terrain can go anywhere on the board
but no piece may be placed adjacent to any other, including diagonally
adjacent. The terrain is impassable for all models. It costs one MP to move
on to a door marker. A figure that moves on to a door marker immediately
escapes.
Scenario Objectives
The Dudes get one point for each dude that escapes the room. Also, the
Dudes get another point for every turn spent gathering money by a model that
escaped.
The Menace gets two points for each Dude eliminated in combat.
The End?
Nope, these are just the prototype rules. We have morale and magic
rules coming down the pipeline, plus our first army lists. I’d like it if
people could give me a little feedback on what’s here so far. Particularly,
I’m interested in how much people like the die mechanic. In our next
installment, I’ll come up with two army lists: Good Guys (elves, dwarves,
humans, and heroes) and Bad Guys (orcs, trolls, dragons, and villains). Send
mail to Mike Mearls with
questions and comments.
